Teak Garden Furniture Care: The Complete Guide

Teak garden furniture is designed to last a lifetime. Solid hardwood teak has been used for centuries — from the decks of ships to the finest garden settings — because it withstands moisture, sun, rain and seasonal change better than any other timber. Whether yours arrived last week or has stood outside for years, cared for properly it will not lose its structural integrity. It simply ages, gracefully, on its own terms.

This guide takes you from delivery day to long-term maintenance. It explains what to expect, what to do, and — just as importantly — what to leave well alone. Most of what people worry about with teak is not a problem; it is simply teak behaving as teak does.

Teak's natural oils are what make it exceptional outdoors: they repel water, deter insects and prevent the rot and fungal decay that would destroy softer timbers. This is why the Royal Navy specified teak for decking, and why plantation teak remains the timber of choice for premium garden furniture.

Natural characteristics

• Highly resistant to moisture, insects and fungal decay.
• Performs exceptionally well in the UK's rain, damp and temperature swings.
• Does not crack structurally — surface cracking is cosmetic only.
• Will not splinter with routine care.
• Ages naturally from honey-brown to silver-grey — both stages are beautiful; neither affects performance.

Insects and pests

Teak needs no pest treatment. The same natural oils and dense grain that resist water also make the timber unattractive to the insects that damage softwoods — which is why teak has been used for ships' decks and outdoor furniture for centuries. You do not need repellents, and you should not apply them.

What does attract insects is what collects on the furniture rather than the wood itself: food residue, spilled drink, pollen and damp leaves left in joints over winter. Keeping the surface clean is the whole of pest control for teak.

What is not a fault

A short list of things that surprise first-time owners but are entirely normal:

• Fine hairline cracks on end grain or across wide sections — cosmetic, caused by natural moisture movement.
• Slight colour variation between pieces or within a single piece — teak is a natural material; no two boards are identical.
• A honey-coloured oily residue on cushions, or faint oil marks on paving beneath the furniture, in the first weeks — surface oils washing out as the wood settles. Temporary, and it weathers away.
• A light bloom or mild surface mould on arrival after transit in humid conditions — wipes off with a damp cloth.
• Gradual greying over 6–12 months — this is the wood weathering, not deteriorating.

The first four weeks matter more than any period that follows. What you do — and what you resist doing — sets your furniture up for the next twenty years.

Do

• Position the furniture outdoors with good airflow around and beneath it.
• If your patio is porous natural stone — sandstone, limestone, Indian stone — consider standing the furniture on grass or gravel for the first few weeks, or check beneath it after rain. New teak can release surface oils when wet, and porous stone absorbs them more readily than sealed or porcelain paving.
• Rinse with clean water and allow it to dry fully in sunlight.
• Repeat the rinse-and-dry cycle two or three times over the first month — this helps surface oils stabilise evenly.
• Let the wood breathe. No covers, no sealants, no oils in this period.

Do not

• Do not apply teak oil to new furniture. It causes blackening and attracts mould in UK conditions (why, below).
• Do not pressure-wash. The surface is stable but not indestructible.
• Do not leave cushions on damp wood overnight during the first few weeks — surface oils may transfer.
• Do not wrap the furniture in a cover before the wood has settled.
• Do not lay plastic sheeting under the furniture to protect the patio — it traps moisture against the feet and the paving. If you want a barrier, use something breathable, or simply reposition the furniture for the first few weeks.

What you will need

• A soft or medium bristle brush, or a sponge.
• A garden hose set to medium pressure — never a jet setting.
• Mild soapy water for a routine wash — or, for anything beyond routine, the marine-grade cleaner in our Teak Care Kit.
• A dry cloth.

Step by step

1. Remove all cushions and clear away any debris.
2. Rinse the whole piece with medium water pressure.
3. Mix a small amount of cleaner with water. Test on a hidden area first.
4. Scrub gently, always with the grain. Focus on crevices and joins.
5. Rinse thoroughly with clean water until all suds are gone.
6. Allow to dry completely — 24 to 36 hours in typical UK weather.
7. If sealing, only do so once the wood is fully dry.

New teak arrives in a warm honey brown. Left alone, it will gradually silver over six to twelve months as UV light and rainfall wash away the surface oils. This is a natural, protective process — the interior of the wood remains rich and oily; only the exposed surface changes tone.

There is no right answer to the colour question. Silver-grey is the traditional garden aesthetic, favoured by heritage estates and formal gardens. Honey-brown is warmer, more contemporary, and preferred by those who want their furniture to echo interior joinery. What matters is deciding early — because preserving the honey tone requires action within the first month.

If you want the silver-grey patina

• Do nothing beyond the routine clean twice a year.
• The greying happens more evenly if the furniture receives light and rain from all sides.
• Expect the transition to complete within 6–12 months, depending on your garden's exposure.

If you want to preserve the honey tone

• Apply a quality teak sealer within the first month after delivery.
• Re-apply every 9–12 months, depending on exposure.
• See the next section for what to use — and what to avoid.

This is the area where most well-intentioned owners cause damage. The distinction matters.

Teak sealers

Teak sealers are typically solvent-based products with a water-like viscosity. They penetrate the surface and form a UV, moisture and mould barrier. They are the correct choice for outdoor teak and are available in clear or tinted formulations. The sealer in our Teak Care Kit is a marine-grade formulation.

Teak oil — why we advise against it on new furniture

Teak oil is often confused with teak sealer. It should not be. Oil on new furniture sits on top of the natural surface oils, does not properly penetrate, and creates a sticky film that attracts airborne mould spores. In the UK's damp climate, this leads to blackening within weeks. If you have used oil successfully on other garden timbers, teak is the exception.

Applying a sealer

Application is straightforward: thin, even coats with the grain on bone-dry wood (at least 48 hours after rain), wipe off any excess after 15–20 minutes, and allow 24 hours to cure. Two thin coats beat one heavy one; a heavy coat sits on the surface, stays tacky and collects dust.

If your teak has greyed and you want to return it to honey — or it has developed stubborn stains from bird droppings, sun cream, food or drink — the renovator in our Teak Care Kit will restore it without heavy scrubbing or sanding. (Prefer to sand? Our guide to restoring old teak by sanding covers that route in full.)

Our Teak Cleaner, Renovator & Sealer is marine grade

• Deep-cleans the grain and lifts embedded stains.
• Removes bird droppings, food and drink stains, rust marks, sun cream and fuel residues.
• Restores a freshly sanded appearance without a sander.
• Formulated to be gentle enough not to soften boat-deck seams — an indicator of controlled action on wood.

Important cautions

• This is a restorative product, not a routine cleaner. It removes the top surface layer and should only be used on older, weathered furniture — not on new pieces.
• Always patch test on an underside or non-visible area first.
• Do not overuse. Once or twice in the life of the furniture is normally enough.
• After restoration the wood is freshly exposed — apply a sealer within a week to preserve the honey tone, or leave it to grey again naturally.

In the UK, any outdoor surface in a shaded or damp spot will eventually develop some green staining or surface mould. Teak is more resistant than most timbers, but not immune. The good news: it is entirely cosmetic and comes off easily.

If your furniture arrives with a light bloom

This occasionally happens after transit in humid conditions. We include moisture-absorbing materials in our packaging, but seasonal variation can still produce a light surface bloom on arrival. It does not affect the strength, durability or lifespan of the piece. Wipe it off with a damp cloth or warm soapy water and allow the furniture to air — the wood returns to its natural state within an hour.

Removing green staining or mould

1. Clear any leaves or debris from the affected area.
2. Clean with mild soapy water or a dedicated teak cleaner.
3. Scrub gently with the grain — never across it.
4. Rinse thoroughly.
5. Allow to dry fully in sunlight before replacing cushions.

Prevention

• Keep the area beneath the furniture clear of leaf litter.
• Avoid tight-fitting covers that trap moisture against the wood.
• Ensure good airflow around and beneath the pieces.
• Move furniture occasionally so no one side stays permanently shaded.

Surface cracking is the fine splitting that appears on all outdoor timber as it responds to changes in temperature and humidity. It is cosmetic. It does not affect strength, stability, longevity or your guarantee. Every reputable teak maker in the world would say the same.

If you prefer a smoother look, cracking can be filled and sanded flat. Wait at least three months after delivery so the wood has stabilised.

What you will need

• Exterior-grade PVA wood glue.
• 180-grit sandpaper (120-grit is acceptable for larger areas).
• A clean cloth.

How to fill and finish

1. Apply a few drops of glue into the crack with your fingertip.
2. Wipe away any excess glue from the surrounding surface immediately.
3. Wait roughly 15 seconds until the glue is tacky.
4. Sand with the grain until smooth and flush.
5. Wipe clean with a dry cloth.

Sanding will temporarily restore the honey colour to that spot. Over the following weeks the tone blends back into the surrounding wood.

Are the cushions waterproof?

No — they are shower-resistant, not waterproof. They will shrug off a passing summer shower, but they are not designed to sit through a British autumn. Bring them in when you are not using the furniture, or when heavy rain is forecast.

Cushion cleaning

• Not machine washable — hand wash only, with cold or lukewarm water.
• For spot stains, use a damp cloth with a mild soap solution.
• Air dry completely before reuse — never store damp cushions.

Why new teak marks paving — and what to do

In the first weeks, rain draws surface oils out of new teak. You may notice faint honey or tea-coloured marks on the paving beneath the furniture — typically around the feet, or in drip lines beneath rails and seat edges. This is not a defect, and it stops once the wood has settled.

How visible it is depends on your paving. Porous natural stone — sandstone, limestone, Indian stone — absorbs the oils and shows marks most readily. Porcelain, sealed stone and concrete flags are largely unaffected; anything that lands sits on the surface and rinses away.

To minimise bleed onto paving

• If your paving is porous natural stone, stand the furniture on grass or gravel for the first three to four weeks if you can.
• If it must sit on the stone, check beneath it after the first few rainfalls and rinse any marks promptly — fresh oil lifts far more easily than oil that has dried into the stone.
• Do not put plastic sheeting underneath — it traps moisture against both the paving and the furniture feet.

If marks appear on the paving

1. Act while the mark is fresh. Rinse with warm water and mild soap, agitating gently with a soft brush.
2. For dried-in marks, use a mild degreasing solution or a patio cleaner suitable for your stone type. Patch test in an inconspicuous corner first — some natural stone reacts to acidic cleaners.
3. Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry. Repeat if needed.
4. Anything that remains weathers out naturally — UV and rainfall break the residue down over the following weeks. Most customers find the marks gone by mid-season without further attention.

To minimise transfer onto cushions

• Let the furniture dry fully after rain before placing cushions.
• Bring cushions in during heavy rain in weeks one to four.
• Ventilate cushions regularly — do not store them stacked and damp.

Covers protect from rain, frost and dust, and reduce cleaning between seasons. Used correctly, they extend the life of the finish. Used incorrectly, they cause the exact damp problems they are meant to prevent. (For the full winter routine, see our guide to leaving teak furniture outside in winter.)

Our protective furniture covers are cut for Luxus sets, but the rules below apply to any cover.

Using them correctly

• Use bobbins or shedding poles to lift the cover clear of table tops — water pools where the cover sits flat.
• Ensure air can circulate underneath. A cover that seals to the ground traps condensation.
• Lift or remove the cover on dry days occasionally so the wood can breathe.
• Never cover damp furniture. Wait until it is fully dry.

• Spring (March – May)

  • Uncover the furniture on the first dry weekend of the season.
  • Give it a full clean — mild soap and a soft brush, or the Teak Care Kit cleaner if it has greyed or marked over winter.
  • Allow 24–36 hours to dry before returning cushions.
  • If you seal, this is the moment — once the wood is completely dry.
  • Check parasols, covers and cushion covers for winter damage.

• Summer (June – August)

  • Enjoy the furniture. This is what you bought it for.
  • Bring cushions in overnight or when rain is forecast.
  • A light rinse after garden work, pollen-heavy days or barbecues keeps the surface even.
  • Move parasols and furniture occasionally to prevent one side greying faster than the other.

• Autumn (September – November)

  • Give the furniture a second full clean before the wet months set in — this is the moment a proper teak cleaner earns its keep, lifting a summer of marks before they overwinter.
  • Clear leaves promptly — wet leaves left on the surface will mark it.
  • Once the wood is fully dry, either move it under cover or fit properly ventilated covers.
  • Store cushions indoors from October at the latest.

• Winter (December – February)

  • The furniture will happily overwinter outdoors — teak was made for this.
  • Lift covers on dry days to let the wood breathe.
  • Check monthly for pooling water on covers and any signs of trapped moisture.
  • Frost and snow will not harm the wood. Sitting damp beneath a sealed cover will.
  • Clear heavy snow with a soft brush rather than leaving it to sit and melt into the joints. Never use a metal shovel, scraper or spade on teak — it will score the surface, and the scratch will outlast the snow.

Everything above is written for teak that lives outdoors. Indoor teak — dining tables, sideboards, chairs — sits in a warm, dry, stable environment, and most of the outdoor advice simply does not apply. There is no weathering to manage, no silvering to embrace or prevent, and nothing to protect against frost.

Everyday care

• Dust regularly with a soft, dry cloth, working with the grain.
• Wipe spills promptly with a barely damp cloth, then dry immediately — never let water sit, and never soak the timber.
• Use coasters and placemats. Prevention is far easier than correction on an interior finish.

What to avoid indoors

• Silicone sprays and wax polishes — they build up a residue that dulls the surface and complicates any future refinishing.
• Abrasive pads, scouring cream and harsh household cleaners.
• Outdoor teak sealers and renovators. Those are formulated for weathered exterior timber and have no place on interior furniture.

Oiling indoor teak — the key difference

This is where indoor and outdoor teak part company. Outdoors, we advise against teak oil because it traps moisture and blackens in the British climate. Indoors there is no such problem, and many pieces are finished with a light oil in the first place.

If your piece has an oiled finish, a small amount of a suitable furniture oil applied sparingly with a lint-free cloth and buffed off — once or twice a year is plenty — keeps the colour even and the surface fed. If it has a lacquered or sealed finish, it needs no oil at all; dusting is enough. If you are not sure which you have, test on an underside: oil soaks in slowly on an oiled finish and sits on the surface of a lacquered one.

Light, heat and humidity

• Direct sunlight through glass fades and dries timber unevenly. Rotate pieces occasionally, or use blinds, so the tone stays consistent across the surface.
• Radiators and central heating dry the air considerably in winter. Keep furniture away from direct heat sources and expect small seasonal movement in solid timber — it is normal, and it reverses.
• Water rings and heat marks are the most common indoor complaints, and both are best prevented with coasters and mats. Deal with any mark while it is fresh; the longer it sits, the deeper it goes.

Browse our indoor teak furniture, including indoor dining tables and sideboards.

Considering new pieces? Everything in our teak garden furniture sets, teak garden tables and teak garden benches collections is made from the same SVLK-certified solid hardwood this guide is written for. And if you are still weighing teak against other materials, our honest guide to the pros and cons of teak garden furniture is the place to start.